Amritsar

Walking through the narrow by lanes of the Amritsar, instantly transports a person to pre-independence, pre-partition era. The lanes, the old buildings and the artefacts that have stood witness to rich history whilst the people have been replaced with new characters playing new roles in their daily lives. The name Amritsar evokes myriad thoughts ranging from pious to ancient to sorrow to hatred to gastronomy and fashion. A visit to the old city Amritsar is a concoction of diverse experiences which can be administered as a shot in the arm or as a prescription dosage to be consumed over a few days.

First Plan Failed

My first plan was an elaborate two nights and three days itinerary. Train tickets and hotel accommodation was booked in advance, and it was all set for the trip. However, it was not to be, as on the day of our departure many trains to Amritsar were cancelled due to Farmers’ Strike.

Second Time Around

The second plan was out of resilience. I was upset that the first plan did not work out and therefore I planned again over a weekend i.e. Saturday and Sunday; just one night and two days.

Get In and Out

Amritsar is well connected by flights, road and railways. From New Delhi, Amritsar is an eight-hour drive by car or a bus. For a longer trip and ease of conveyance car is a good choice. Considering my short two-day trip, I opted to travel by the New Delhi- Amritsar Shatabdi Express. Two trains operate from New Delhi to Amritsar daily. The first train departs at 0720 and arrives Amritsar at 1330. The second train departs New Delhi daily in the afternoon at 1630. It is a premium short distance train. Two meals are included in the fare. The train on return, the next day, departed Amritsar at 1650 arriving New Delhi at 2250.

Local Transportation

There are ample means of transportation available, suiting all budgets at Amritsar Railway Station. E-rickshaws, Auto-rickshaws, Four wheelers and Bus (for large groups). There are numerous taxi operators available online. Chat with a few to negotiate a suitable price. I pre-booked a Toyota Innova Crysta for a family of five to visit Attari and back. The places in and around Amritsar can be visited by Electric and fossil fuel driven rickshaws which operate at very nominal fare.

Attari Border

The ceremonial border crossing between India and Pakistan is a unique place to visit, which cannot be replicated by any other. The realisation that the land on the other side of the gate was once part of the undivided India is surreal. The highlight is a pompous sunset ceremony conducted by the Indian Border Security Force and the Pakistan Rangers. It is an aggressive display of military drill where both sides match step for step and outdo each other in fervor, cheered by boisterous and patriotic spectators on both sides. To add fuel to fire, it was a day of notorious India-Pakistan cricket match in ODI World Cup 23 in which India won.

Golden Temple by Night

It was middle of October 23 and the evenings were extremely pleasant in Amritsar. From the Attari Border we directly went to the Golden Temple (Shri Harmandir Sahib). The Golden Temple in its golden glory on a moonlit night enhanced by intrinsic electric lights is a sight to behold. The reflection of holy golden temple in the surrounding sarovar (lake) is astounding. The serenity, tranquility and hymns in the background give a riveting spiritual experience even amongst the throngs of pilgrims.

Golden Temple by Day

The daytime experience was equally mesmerising. We revered the langar (holy meal) which runs round the clock by a battalion of volunteers. The management of continuous crowds of devotees is carried out with mechanical precision. Everybody gets a plate, bowl, spoon and seat (on the floor). Food is served automatically and once you leave, the utensils are taken from the hand and sent for a wash. There are no bottlenecks and there is no waiting.

Cultural Practice – It is mandatory for every person visiting Shri Harmandir Sahib (The Golden Temple) to cover his/her head at all times once inside. The cover can be any clean cloth. If one has forgotten to carry by sheer oversight, pieces of cloth are available for free, kept in a bin just outside the entrance. And of course, they can be bought for Rs 10/- from numerous street vendors.

Partition Musuem

Housed in an old Town Hall building of the British era, Partition Museum is an artistic display of artefacts. A walk through the galleries is emotionally draining. A hastily carried out partition, like a surgeon cutting through skin with a rusty scalpel, the gaping septic flesh wound has never healed with deep rooted hatred on both sides of the Border.

Quite easily overlooked in a decade of disastrous events like the World War II, genocide of the Jews, formation of Israel and Independence of India and Pakistan, the Partition is not spoken much about much. More than 18 million people were affected by the partition. The photographs, artefacts, video testimonies of uprooted and forced to migrate Indians gives a glimpse into those challenging times. The uprooting and separation of families, associated riots and vengeful victims is closely replicated in the museum.

Jallianwalah Bagh

Jallianwalah Bagh is an enclosed area, close to the Golden Temple, where thousands of people gathered peacefully for a prayer meet on 13 Apr 1919, were fired upon by soldiers under the orders of General Reginald Dyer. The area has been transformed into a memorial in the honour of the deceased. The access to the area is through a narrow corridor and there is no exit. The innocent civilians could not escape the raining bullets (few bullet holes can still be seen on the walls).

Amenities

Accommodation suiting all budgets are aplenty in Amritsar. The area around the main attractions is congested and the streets are narrow. Hence, don’t expect to be driven to the door of your hotel. Be prepared to walk the last few 100 metres. Delicious Punjabi food is available round the clock. Restaurants in area around the Golden Temple only serve vegetarian. Non-vegetarian food is available in a separate part of the town.

Conclusion

The holy and pious town of Amritsar has a peaceful vibe true to its name. There are enormous crowds making a continuous beeline to the temple at any time of the day. Despite all the rush every service in the Golden temple is for free. It could be hot during the day or cold at night, but its tranquil all around. People are at their best in this place of worship. There is no loss of temper in the narrow streets, shop owners, rickshaw drivers and hotel employees are patient, ever willing to help and well behaved. My visit for a one-night sojourn but I will certainly return again.